Wednesday 23 March 2011

The History of the Clutch Purse

The word Clutch arose in Middle English derived from the now obsolete word clitch- from Old English Clyccan which meant bend or clench. The modern meaning of the word is a device for engaging a motor vehicle's gears- which came from the meaning of clutch in the 19th century, "coupling for bringing working parts together." And when you think about it, that is exactly what happens when you pack your Clutch purse for a night out. It's a small bag for the essential items required for an evening out or special occasion- all the working parts, lipstick, money, keys... brought together in a small bag.

But the clutch is not a new fashion. According to Simon Steph at ezine articles, fashion style, "Small purses known as reticules were used by women as far back in time as the end of the medieval period, favored because of their lightness and convenience. These early clutch bags reached their peak of popularity during the 19th century in both Europe and America, and then, rather inexplicably, died out close to the turn of the century in the 20th."

Although I don't know if it is inexplicable. The 20th century brought more opportunities for women, more liberation. Maybe we just needed to carry more stuff? World War I opened up opportunities for women to go to work in factories which had an effect on the length of skirts / dresses and also hair. Both were shortened for reasons of safety and practicality. And while women certainly didn't enjoy the kind of equality we have now, going to work probably necessitated porting more things around to accommodate a working day.

Shoulder bags and larger purses became more fashionable in the early 20th century. And Steph from ezine suggests that this was, "perhaps partly because the large quantity of leather was a sign of ostentation in the sudden abundance of manufactured goods that the 20th century brought."

World War II, like WWI before it, had a similar effect on fashion. The war brought rations for everything; and anything frivolous, like large leather bags or purses, were in short supply. The shortage of leather meant simpler, smaller designs and the Clutch came back into fashion. It's interesting to think that something that was created out of necessity is now considered to be more of a luxury purse- mainly for evening wear or special occasions.

By the late 70s, early 80s, women's situation in terms of liberation and work choices had changed dramatically from the beginning of the century. Fashion-era.com outlines the changes throughout this time stating, "There were many sought after accessories in the 1980s.  The early 80s saw a vogue for clutch handbags in many colours with matching shoes." They also go on to say that, "1980s fashion favoured applied decoration on suits and T-shirts and beadwork on clothing which all pandered to the ideals of a time of conspicuous consumption. The 1980s was a time of greed and individuals living a lie that they had everything whether it be fashion, champagne or property." It's interesting that the reticule that had once been brought back into fashion from a need to consume less, became a symbol of excess during the 80s when women could afford to buy numerous purses in a wide array of colours with matching shoes or other accessories.



Certainly this lipstick red beauty would make any modern woman stand out in a crowd! A great piece of late 70s early 80s history that represents as much how far women have come in the last century, as it does great style!

http://www.etsy.com/listing/69742481/red-leather-clutch-1970s

Thanks for visiting!



Monday 21 March 2011

Big Eyed Kids Movement


Its funny how certain things remain in our memories... especially shapes and colours and smells and sounds. I came across this great print recently and didn't really know why it was special. I just knew that it resonated with something in my memory and took it home to find out more... I recalled that my childhood best friend had "Big Eyed Columbines" hanging in her bedroom, but it was a style that I recognised from imagery in my childhood.

What I discovered was the "Big Eyed Kid" movement also known as the "Keane Eyed Kids". These were heavily mass produced prints made and widely distributed in the 1960s and 1970s.

There is some dispute about who was the originator of the Keane Eyes Movement. According to a Wikipedia article, Walter Keane claimed that his inspiration for the Big Eyed style came from the people he saw in Europe after World War II and was quoted as saying,  "My psyche was scarred in my art student days in Europe, just after World War II, by an ineradicable memory of war-wracked innocents. In their eyes lurk all of mankind's questions and answers. If mankind would look deep into the soul of the very young, he wouldn't need a road map. I wanted other people to know about those eyes, too. I want my paintings to clobber you in the heart and make you yell, 'DO SOMETHING!"

This claim was disputed, however, by "Margaret Keane" whose work can be found at: http://www.keane-eyes.com/. The Wikipedia article goes on to document a running battle between the family that started out painting and exhibiting together, but ended up in court fighting over who was the originator of the "Big Eyes" style. Both Margaret and Walter Keane's work was collected widely, with Walter being quoted in 1991 as saying, "I painted the waifs of the world." Margaret won the lawsuit and is now widely recognised as the original creator of the style and also Walter's work.
Many other artists also worked in this style including:- Gig, Eden, Eve, Lee, Franka, Maio, Goji, Sherle, Igor and Miki.

The typical common feature of these works was large exagerated heads and large eyes, often tiny button noses. The poses and drawing style are typically niave as is the subject matter- children, pussy cats and puppies, columbines, sad clowns- vulnerable subjects; often with tears near overflowing or a tear running down the cheek. Considered very kitsch by some, and because of their mass prodcution they are still not terribly valuable, however, their popularity has increased in recent times as more people begin to collect them.

I thought that this one that I found was particularly interesting, as it contains native Australian fauna and what looks like an aboriginal child posing with the flowers in front of her chest and wearing only a strategically tied cloth over her groin. In terms of historical representation it shows the naive attitude towards Australia's indigenous people as represented in white pop art in the 1960s and 1970s. It's also a great piece for any collector of "Big Eyed" art.

Print available for sale at: http://www.etsy.com/listing/70207683/1960s-1970s-aboriginal-big-eyed-kid

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Walter_Keane

http://besmirched.tripod.com/margaret.html

A new movie about Margaret Keane's life is also due to be made in June.
http://www.ew.com/ew/article/0,,20176423,00.html